Hambleton Drove Road
The Hambleton Drove Road
This is a 15-mile long ribbon of (mostly) white limestone track that threads its way south across the bare wilderness of the North York Moors. It's a magnificent stretch of drovers' road, used by the Scots on their way from Durham to York.
The country around is old: it is littered with prehistoric earthworks – tumuli, long barrows and dikes; and with abbeys – Rievaulx, Byland, Newburgh and Mount Grace; and more recently with limestone quarries and inns – The Chequers*, Limekiln House, Dialstone. (The first and last of these are farms now; the second we couldn't find.)
And Hambleton was “The Newmarket of the North”: near Dialstone Farm (SE 518843) was the Hambleton Race Ground, where “the king's plate of 100 guineas is run for once a year”, according to Daniel Defoe.
No more: on yer bike before the weather breaks! (Bike is probably the best way to do it, because the scenery, though magnificent, tends to stick around for a time, and there's no refreshment once you are up there.) Start just west of Swainby, struggle up Sneck Yate – and there you are.
* SE 475971. According to Bonser, the inn sign used to bear the words:
Be not in haste;
Step in and taste
Good ale for nothing – tomorrow.
The peat fire inside was supposed to have burnt for 300 years.