Carmarthen-Epynt

The easiest way north-east from Carmarthen is along the A40, a splendid road running along the River Towy, often straight as a die but by no means toll-free.  So the drovers preferred the route on the south side of the river where tollgates were relatively rare.  This route goes through Capel Dewi then bypasses Nantgeredig, meaning Blessed Stream, because the Towy comes right up to the road to provide the beasts with water; then Llanarthne and Ffairfach (below Llandeilo) to Llangadog Common.  After R&R on the Common they would go over the Rhiwiau – see separate article – to the Cross Inn, and on to the uplands of the Brecon Beacons.  Sheep country.  

Then the fun begins, at SN 862275: Stepping Stones – just north of The Old Vicarage.  We couldn't find any stones so we went across the neat little bridge above the baby Usk, and from there on the walk was as near to heaven as one gets down here on the planet.  As long as you remember to keep left and not go straight through the large field ahead.  Stick close to the hedge on your left for 200 yds, in other words, and you'll see a gap at the LH edge of the field that takes you up to Llwyn-yn, a deserted farmhouse.

I don't think many walk this path, although they should.  We saw wild raspberries, but they weren't ripe enough.  Then, more on the level, we passed the deserted farm Llwyn-yn and hoped we'd meet a farmer, squatter, whatever! – just to pass the time and hear a few stories, perhaps.  But we found only cobwebs over the locks and wondered if The Listeners were there:

     Is there anybody there?' said the Traveller, Knocking on the moonlit door;

     And his horse in the silence champed the grasses Of the forest's ferny floor.

     And a bird flew up out of the turret, Above the Traveller's head:

     And he smote upon the door again a second time; ‘Is there anybody there?' he said.

The most haunting poem I know, The Listeners by Walter de la Mare.  I've just quoted the first eight lines, so look it up if you don't know it.

Then, after a stretch of gravel drive from the farmhouse on which there was an abandoned car, tidily parked to lend a bit more gloom to the scene – well, at least the farm is accessible, or escapable! – we walked up the edge of a long field then took a right turn on to a minor road; first left down a slipway and straight over the Llandovery-Trecastle Roman Road (868293) to – the difficult bit.

I don't know whether the slope we went down has been made steeper, rockier and more dangerous by quad-bikers, or not; but I promise you – it's pretty darned steep!  You can see that from #4.  So it was a relief to spot Llywel Church over the bank and know I could turn back (#5).  I really did not want to go down to the depths of the A40, only to have to up the other side, past Llywel and on to Epynt and the Border, dodging artillery shells.  No artillery on Epynt till WW2, but drovers coming this way through Carmarthenshire deserved a medal because they did not do it for recreation. 

Crikey, we are a lucky, lucky generation.